You can either use a rotary tool like the Dremel tool with cutting bits as shown in the picture to the left. Put the receiver and barrel in the stock and see if you can easily move the trigger. I suggest taking your time and removing a little wood at a time. You will need to remove some of the wood in the stock for the new trigger to move freely without obstruction.įigure 6 shows the stock prior to removing any of the wood. Note: In figure 5 the Huber trigger has more metal surface area below the sear, when compared to the original trigger pictured in figure 4. I placed it in the sear and tapped the trigger pin back in. Installing the Huber trigger is just as easy as removing the old trigger. Using a punch, I tapped out the trigger pin and the original trigger fell out. I removed the entire trigger assembly including the sear by punching out the sear pin ( as shown in figure 4). The original trigger ( as shown in figure 3) is not adjustable and has been the bane of my existence.Īfter disassembling the 98k, the trigger is easy to remove. Trigger creep is how far the trigger travels before you break and fire a round. Over-travel is how far the trigger travels after you break and fire a round.Īnti-friction ball adjusts the sear engagement. You can make three adjustments via the supplied allen wrench: On close inspection the Huber trigger is very adjustable. I had even thought about selling or trading it for something else.
What did I have to lose? I never took the rifle out of the safe to shoot anyways. I read the instructions and it definitely seemed like I could handle the installation. When I first took the trigger out of the package, I was really taken with the unique look and design ( as shown in the legend above and figure 1)! Very distinctive looking, almost like a piece of jewelry. Note: You can view pictures of the different types of Huber triggers at the end of the article. Custom: Out of this world in appearance.Ultra Light: A skeletonized version of the Huber trigger.Match Grade: Looks pretty much like the original trigger on the outside.The Huber triggers come in three flavors. John told me that he was confident that he made a product that would stand up to anything else made a solid stainless-steel trigger with a very unique anti-friction ball that made the trigger pull, smooth. He asked me to give him a call, so I did and after we discussed the idea for the article he shipped me the trigger. John owns Huber Concepts and crafts the Huber Anti-Friction Ball Trigger, for some of the greats in Military rifles - the US Model 03A3, Enfield P-17, SMLE, Arisaka Type 99, and the Mauser 98k. Huber contacted me via email to discuss his new trigger. I had been thinking about writing a "How-to" article based upon installing a high-performance trigger in my 98k and taking it to the range to see if it would help. It just never shot right! Hell, I have SKS Carbines that have better trigger pulls then this 98k did. Maybe I will save the pictures of the targets for a Military Shotgun Section, if I ever create one.
I was so embarrassed by the performance, no matter the ammo used, that I never wrote the article. I once took it out to the range for a shooting session with the intention to write a "Range Report" for the German 98k Rifle Section on. I had a German Mauser 98k that matched this description. Let me describe a scenario for you - your rifle or carbine looks great, the barrel is pristine, headspace is perfect, but the trigger pulls forever and breaks about as easy as pulling a nail out of a block of wood! He asked me, "What's the point? Anyone can shoot well from the bench, even with creeping military two-stage triggers." I don't believe the statement is exactly true! How many of you love your Milsurp rifles, but hate their triggers ( a rhetorical question)? I was recently at the range talking with a friend about adjustable triggers on military rifles. Mauser 98k Ultra Light Trigger and the Yugo m48 Match Grade Trigger